Dave Tierney

It's better in the dark

Burgers neon sign

Would smash ~ But maybe don't

Dave Tierney 〜 10/21/2026

Food

Without really trying, and certainly not for the benefit of my cholesterol levels, I found myself trying quite a few different burgers this summer. Some were good, some were great, but I did find some key similarities in what I really found special. Without further ado, let’s talk about some of the tasty burgers I took down in 2026.

Most recently, I visited Gus Gus in St. Paul, which specializes in upscale comfort food. We tried several dishes and everything was delicious. Hand pies, mussels, their vegetable sides, and an excellent beverage program are all worth mentioning. But there is definitely a reason the burger is so revered. A mound of caramelized onions, double near-smash patties, mustard aioli, a terrificly toasted bun and gobs of gooey cheese. Definelty a sweet, savory, and salty bomb, like the burger version of French onion soup. Despite everything going on, the flavor of the beef still shines through.

Another recent burger I tried, was at Bill’s Bait Shop in South Minneapolis. This was also very good, but I something about it didn’t quite satisfy in the same way. The flavors were all there, a great and similar selection of toppings. We are going with double smashed patties, potato bun, american cheese, caramelized onions, and garlic aioli. I don’t think the patties were quite as juicy and the balance was just off. The patties were either a tiny bit smaller or didn’t weren’t quite as well seasoned. Overall, it was a very solid burger, but it didn’t quite match Gus Gus. The prices for food were hitting kind of hard for a “neighborhood, Northern Minnesota dive” kind of feel they are going for. The deviled eggs and basically Ranch cheese curds were very delicious, no lack of flavor there.

I also got a burger, specifically a Jucy Lucy, from Matt’s Bar in South Minneapolis earlier in the summer as well. Too much has been said about Matt’s. No notes, perfect, 15 out of 10, french fries were awesome and decently priced beer. Go there now.

Last but not least, I cooked some burgers at home with a nice brisket blend I picked up from a local butcher shop. They told me it was in the 80-20 range, perhaps a little fattier. When I cooked the patties in a ripping cast iron pan, I certainly rendered a ton of beef fat. They basically basted in the beef fat for the second half of cooking. I gave them a light press to get some good contact, but I did not smash. They were so delicious. I tried two different variations. One had american cheese, pickles, sliced onions and mustard. The second had cheddar cheese, ketchup, mustard, pickles, mayo and lettuce. Oh man, both were really good and I think there is a world where both can exist. The second burger had a refreshing crunch, reminiscent of a classic drive-in burger. I think it ultimately competes with a high quality burger patty. However, after all these burgers, quality meat, pickles, american cheese optional, and a little mustard are all I need to make the perfect burger.

I should probably go for a walk now and try to thin out my blood. Nice work summer!